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Wer wäre für einen kritischen kulinarischen Blick besser geeignet als ein Erzfeind, ein Deutscher also? Besser geeignet scheint da zweifellos ein Mensch, der zwar Deutsch zu reden und zu schreiben versteht, aber mittlerweile zu einem waschechten Iren mutiert ist – zumindest was seinen Blick auf die Engländer betrifft.
Ralf Sotscheck, gebürtiger Berliner ging nach Irland und blieb. Er wurde Auslandskorrespondent der taz, heiratete und nahm die Irische Staatsbürgerschaft an. Endlich kann man nun also lesen, was einem Deutschen Auge sicherlich stets entgangen ist: nach mad cow desease und Vogelgrippe ist England kulinarisch auf Kartoffelchipskurs. Mittlerweile werden Chips auf der Insel nicht nur einem medialen Vergleichstest unterzogen, sie werden gleich von jedem im Land in Mengen weggeschaufelt, als gäbe es nichts Leckeres.
Und richtig: aus englischer Sicht kann man das alte Nationalgericht Fish&Chips sicherlich nicht mehr essen. Denn schließlich wurde durch eine EU-Norm aus Brüssel das Einwickeln dieses Essens in eigens dafür gedruckte Zeitungen verboten. Das fettige Gericht gewürzt mit reichlich Essig konnte allerdings nur durch die Druckerschwärze seinen vollen Geschmack entwickeln und es war der einzig plausible Grund dafür, dass man in England überhaupt die Sun kaufte. Nun trägt kein Engländer mehr Druckerschwärze auf der Zunge, dafür aber die Zeitung roh unterm Arm. Kein Wunder, dass man in diesem Land eine magentiefe Abneigung gegenüber Europa verspürt.
Ich werde an dieser Stelle nicht auf die Besonderheit englischer Würstchen eingehen. Das kann man sich besonders appetitlich, kenntnisreich und kurzweilig am Besten selbst durchlesen. Und die Küche der Engländer ist dabei lediglich ein Aspekt, den das handliche Büchlein unter die Lupe nimmt.
Ein Vergnügen und Genuss, dieses Buch zu lesen.
Santé!
Ralf Sotscheck: Nichts gegen Engländer. Psychogramm eines merkwürdigen Volkes. Edition Tiamat, Berlin 2008. 143 Seiten. ISBN-13: 978-3893201211, 13,-€