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Genuss liegt nicht einfach in der Gier begründet. Auch ist Genuss nicht gleichzusetzen mit ungesundem Lebenswandel. Genuss ist somit nicht ein Gegner der Gesundheit, die lediglich durch eine genussfreie Lebensweise erhalten werden kann. Diese ans Mittelalter erinnernden Denkfigur gilt es im Mörser der Küche zu Staub werden zu lassen.

Denn es gibt eine andere Übung, die Genuss und Wohlbefinden gleichermaßen fördert und damit der Gesundheit nicht entgegensteht, sondern ihr förderlich ist, wenn überhaupt die Gesundheit der Weisheit letzter Schluss oder ihre letzte Knechtschaft sein soll.

Die Übung – die Askese im ursprünglichen Sinne – ist hier verstanden als ein Prozess, der sinnliche Eindrücke reflektiert und somit der Refelexion zu neuen Gegenständen der Auseinandersetzung verhilft. In diesem Sinne kann man sagen, dass ein guter Koch ein wahrer Asket ist. Denn er wendet sich bewusst davon ab, einen geschmacklichen Einheitsbrei anzubieten. Damit wendet er sich von den Geschmacksvorgaben der Lebensmittelindustrie ab und der damit einhergehenden Verstumpfung der Geschmackssinne.

Der Profi- und Hobbykoch, der Gast, der Wert auf geschmackliche Vielfalt legt, übt sich somit in Askese. „Die Geschmacksnerven der Menschen sind eingelullt vom ewig gleichen Brei. Genau zu schmecken, Differenzen zu erspüren – das ist ein Akt des Sich-Übens, und genau das ist schließlich der Ursprung von „askein“.“

Erfreuen wir uns an unserer Askese.

Santé!

Reimer Gronemeyer: Die neue Lust an der Askese. Berlin 1998, 192 Seiten